Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
